Monday, March 3, 2014

Strikes, Bargains and Water Fights

Tuesday and Wednesday the Cusco department underwent a huge strike in. We have seen many strikes here before, but this one was particularly strong. The people are striking because the government has postponed the building of a new international airport in Chincheros, (outside of Cusco) and the building of a southern gas line.  Our street in front has been eerily quiet, but we heard a lot of drums, whistles and shouting down the way. 

On Wednesday morning we were invited by our friends the Yauli’s to go the airport to welcome home their daughter, Cinthia, from her mission in Argentina. We were told to be to the airport by 6am. The taxis were running early before the strike got started so we were able to get there. Once there, her flight didn’t really land until 6:35, so we waited. Of course her family was excited and had a huge banner, balloons and flowers for her. We waited and waited flight after flight from Lima with no Cinthia. Phone calls were flying between Argentina and Peru.  Finally, after hours of phone calls, we learned that Cinthia was in Lima but would not be arriving until later.

 About 10am we decided we’d better leave before the strike got any worse. We left the family in the airport and headed out. We walked up the street a bit hoping to get a taxi, but we saw taxis going the other direction being pelted with rocks and dirt and decided we’d better just walk. There were hardly any cars out and those that were brave enough or dumb enough to try driving ran into problems. All kinds of people dragged their suitcases behind them as we made our way towards the center.  Police with riot gear were everywhere and we had to wind our way through streets to avoid the massive parade of protesters.

At one point we thought we were pretty safe and suddenly heard lots of yelling and shouting, turned around and they were coming up behind us! There were police helicopters circling, police cars, trucks and motorcycles everywhere. We even saw 10 mounted police galloping up our street. What a relief to make it home safe and sound! We stayed put, read, watched movies and had a great day. We did finally hear about Cinthia, her flight landed at 7pm in Cusco. What a long, trying day for her family! The next morning they came over at 7:30am to visit us before heading up to Espinar.
We had a paucity of genealogical photos this week due to the strikes and the fact that we have been tasked with some very difficult books of late. We are making though.

We have some visitors coming from home and so made a special morning trip to the Baratillo, what passes for the Goodwill/Deseret Industries of Cusco. A fascinating array of teaming humanity, everyone goes to this place to get deals. Literally, everything from soup (indeed, Rich took a picture of the soup kitchen at the top of the place), to nuts, tires, headboards, spindles, pots, sunglasses, blue jeans, rope, radio parts, auto parts, animal hides, tourist trinkets, and the odd parrot. There are street after street of things out on the sidewalk, on little tables and just heaped everywhere. Though we may have described this before, it always leaves us a little overawed. It amazes us how much our sense of personal space has changed in our years in Peru. Before we came here, we had a sort of sense that such a thing as a “proper” distance actually existed. After a morning of being mashed and smashed and jostled in the Baratillo, we no longer suffer under this delusion… Anyway, we think it’s a fun place to drag anyone willing to have the full Peruvian experience so we went to evaluate it from that perspective.

We spent a nice Sabbath in Izcuchaca. We traveled in a van/combi this time and as the driver slowed to cross a speed bump a shot of shaving flew through an open window. It narrowly missed Rich in his suit and hit the young women behind us. The joys of Carnaval! During the meetings we heard lots of firecrackers, music, and shouting. As we left we thought it had rained but soon realized that Carnaval was in full swing. There was water everywhere, drenched people covered with shaving cream and water balloon remains all over the road. The shaving cream comes in tall cans with a special nozzle that shoots it really far. We have seen it for sale everywhere along with balloons, confetti and colored powder.

The main street in Izcuchaca had several groups of boys/men on one side and the girls/women on the other. Water balloons were flying over the cars and during the breaks in traffic, the two sides attacked each other with buckets and wash tubs filled with water. Miraculously we were able to maneuver through the milieu and stay dry to the taxi stand to take us back to Cusco. While we hurriedly jumped into our ride, a young man with a bucket ran by dousing a young woman standing in front of the car. It was really warm outside but we kept our windows up as the driver got us through town. However, every group of people by the side of the road was armed with buckets and shaving cream, so we were constantly lowering and raising our windows.

When we pulled into Cusco the story continued, just with a lot more people, water and foam.  We had to laugh at one darling little girl about 4 years old standing in front of her house with a squirt gun and with two hands pulling the trigger would shoot a weak spray of water at the cars passing by. She was so cute. We arrived at our stop and had to jump out and get another taxi to take us home, with water, shaving cream and balloons flying everywhere. Rich managed to quickly flag a taxi and we thought we were home safe, but just as Julie was getting in the car she got shot with water from a powerful squirt gun. We were certainly glad to make it to our calm, quiet street! Whew, what an adventure!
 


Police awaiting strike

Police awaiting strike

Police awaiting strike






Mounted police  and foot police in riot  gear

Protestors/
Strike blockade

A lot of protestors
Mother and Child

Mother and Child

Neighborhood Cat

Lady in Red

Waiting for  our missionary

Waiting for  our missionary

Strike Breakfast, sausage eggs and... cake

Cat stalking baby ducks

Cusco Duck Ranch

Sprouted Corn to make Chicha


Buen Provecho! in the  Baratillo

Urpi #1 (Utpi means dove in Quechua and is used to describe girls)

Urpi #2

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Julie Shopping in the Baratillo Market

Less than cheery lady in the Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Horn Dealers in the Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Polly, (seriously) Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Baratillo Market

Chicharon restaurant of particular interest are the varying prices on the Sheep's Head Soup(they vary according to the part of the head, most desirable, eye, tongue, ear etc...)

Chicharones fried pork and potatoes for breakfast... Not necessarily our healthiest meal

Chicharon place artwork
 


Sunday Dinner with the Sister Missionaries

Sunday, February 23, 2014

Nothing Says Carnaval Like A Stack Of Sheep's Heads

We had a peaceful week with some difficult books to image but we managed. Monday night we had a fun family home evening with the Agüeros downstairs. Sister Agüero made Columbian empanadas that were delicious and we took chocolate “mint” brownies. The brownies were yummy but it is impossible to find real mint extract or any extract for that matter. There is a “mint flavored” liquid that has green food coloring in it and after using nearly ½ bottle in the frosting there was a very faint hint of mint but it was green! They say that imitation is the sincerest form of flattery yet despite our longing for the desired effect and best efforts at divination and experimentation, they were nothing like the brownies that Kim makes in Edgewood, boo hoo!

We have a friend named Raquel that comes to model for Rich here at home. He has been working on portraits of her and we have had a fun time getting better acquainted. Julie made banana bread the other day which Raquel loves. This loaf had chopped pecans in it and Raquel didn’t know what kind of nut that is. Rich got one from the kitchen and showed it to her then invited her to eat it. She was bewildered when he gave her the half pecan to eat and said, “Oh, I can’t eat that! I couldn’t eat a  whole nut, they are too strong for me!” We had a good chuckle over that as we thought about all the whole nuts we have eaten in our lives.

Our favorite chef in Peru, Gaston Acurio opened up another restaurant here. It’s a sandwich, burger and fries kind of place. Their hamburgers are all veal and the ones we had were delicious.  We’re glad to know there is good place to get a burger now and then.  We also have a good place to get salads that are safe. We can buy lettuce in the market but it doesn’t last more than a day and it’s not great. Who knew that we would get cravings for lettuce?  Of course we have cravings for black licorice, Mexican food, Vietnamese food, Thai food, Kim’s brownies…but lettuce?

Saturday night we attended the adult session of the Cusco Stake Conference. It was a great meeting and we loved being there with the members. We were sitting near the front and had to chuckle when a stray dog wandered in and somehow made it up to the stand and to the back row of the choir before anyone tried to get him out. This church is big and modern, sits on a busy street and the chapel is upstairs in the building. That was one persistent pooch!

We spent Sunday in Izcuchaca and had a nice time there. There was a barbecue on the corner next to the church with salsa music blaring the whole time. It was a fund raiser for the family that lives in the home. Apparently the gas tank exploded and burned everything except for the physical adobe structure.  Fortunately the family is OK, but it is heartbreaking to see because they had next to nothing already and then lost it all. Life certainly can be tough at times.
Artsy beggar photo

Little salesgirl

Artsy beggar photo

Empanadas for breakfast

Not Mary Poppins

Checking on her  stuff


Waiting on a ledge

Beggar
Neighborhood Boxer

Getting breakfast

Joy on a trike


Julie in Gaston's burger joint

Rich in Gaston's burger joint

Sauces in in Gaston's burger joint

Ladies laughing at Rich

All business

Nuts for sale, go figure

Sawing  a sheep's head

Nothing says festive  like a stack of sheep's heads



Or  maybe nothing says festive  like a stack of cow's hooves

Or  maybe nothing says festive  like a cow's head

Just because Karisa likes funnily named Peruvian treats